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Physiology of Taste

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CHAPTER V.



CLOTHING, AND WHAT TO WEAR.


It is worth considering somewhat minutely what are the requisites of
perfect clothing, and what properties our different kinds of wearing
apparel possess. Without doubt any reflection on the question of what
is usually worn and what ought to be worn is not only of considerable
interest generally, but of great moment likewise from a health point of
view. It cannot be maintained too strongly that the question of the
proper material for a suitable covering for the body takes a footing
nearly equal to the very important one of diet itself. Now, there is no
form of clothing which on its own account creates heat, or has the
property of bestowing warmth upon the body, but the difference in it
consists in its power of preventing the escape of the body heat. These
qualities in the different varieties of wearing apparel will depend to
a great extent upon the thickness of the materials, and also upon the
varying power which they possess in detaining air within their meshes.
It is this latter property of retaining the air, which is warmed by
contact with the body, in their interstices, which constitutes the
great difference in the various clothing materials. This is also an
explanation of the well-known fact that loose garments are always
warmer than tightly fitting ones, for in the former there is the layer
of warm air in contact with the body, which has no opportunity for
existing in the latter. In the same way two or three layers of
under-garments will always be warmer than a single one, equal to their
combined thickness, since there is a separate layer of air between each
of the thinner ones.

All the differences in the various fabrics are due in chief part
to the properties of heat. The ordinary or normal temperature of the
human body is between 98 degrees and 99  degrees Fahrenheit, while that of
the air will vary considerably, according to the climate and locality.
Each individual, therefore, must be regarded as a material, though living,
object which is enveloped in a surrounding atmosphere. As such, heat
will conform to certain fixed laws in its relations to the two bodies.
It is always a definite fact that when two bodies in contact with each
other are of different temperatures, they tend to become of equal
temperature. The warmer will part with its heat to the cooler, and the
latter will in like manner reduce the temperature of the former. By
covering, then, the surface of the body, it is prevented from giving
its heat directly to the air, for the clothes intercept it by absorbing
the heat themselves.

In the second place the clothes prevent a too rapid escape of heat from
the body, and by keeping a layer of warm air in contact with the skin,
they preserve the body heat. Again, the various materials used to
clothe the body vary much as to the readiness with which they conduct
heat; accordingly we speak of good and bad conductors of heat. A bad
conductor, such as wool, will keep the heat of the body from escaping
to the sir, and thus forms warm clothing, while a good conductor like
cotton will lead away the heat quickly and prove cooler.

As said before, the texture of the material--that is, the size of its
meshes--which allows air to pass more or less freely through it, also
exercises a greater effect upon clothing. No healthy clothing is
absolutely air-proof, the access of the air through it being necessary
to our health and comfort. Thus oil-skin and mackintosh, which are
air-tight as well as water-tight, make most people feel very
uncomfortable.

In addition to their texture or permeability to air, and to
their conducting or non-contracting powers, fabrics also vary according
to their hygroscopic qualities. By hygroscopic is meant the power of
absorbing moisture; thus a thin flannel is one of the coolest materials
we can have, for it absorbs perspiration; while linen, which is
non-hydroscopic, when moist allows the fluid to evaporate rapidly, and
thus cools the body too quickly, and therefore dangerously. Hence flannel
is a most suitable fabric in which to take exercise, as there is less
danger of taking a chill.

There are four chief materials to be considered in connection with
clothing, namely--cotton and linen, which belong to the vegetable
kingdom, and silk and wool, which are obtained from the animal world.
These four, either in their own form or else in combination with each
other, such as merino, constitute most of our wearing apparel. Cotton
is the fine, soft, downy material of a hairy nature which is found on
the seeds of a certain plant, the cotton plant, which belongs to the
mallow family. Its fibres are flattened in shape, and are twisted at
intervals. The form of the fibres has an important effect in the action
of cotton material on the skin. Being of a flattened shape, they have
sharp edges, which in delicate skins are apt to cause irritation.
Cotton wears well, it is not absorbent of moisture nearly to the same
extent as linen, nor does it conduct away the heat of the body so
quickly as the latter, hence it is a warmer material than linen. On the
other hand, it does not retain the heat against the body like wool, and
is an appropriate material for dress in hot climates. In merino there
is a mixture of about one-fifth to one-half part of wool with cotton.

Linen, the other product of the vegetable kingdom, is obtained from the
fibres of the common flax. Its fibres, unlike those of other
fabrics, are distinguished by their roundness and their freedom from
stiffness. These properties give to it that peculiar softness which
makes it so agreeable to the feel, and comforting and soothing to the
skin. But, on the other hand, it has certain characters which are a
drawback. As was stated before, it differs from cotton in that it is
cooler, but unfortunately it absorbs moisture from the body quickly,
and becomes saturated with perspiration. This is removed so quickly by
the action of the external air, causing rapid evaporation, that there
is great danger of a chill.

The next material in alphabetical order is silk, and it is also the
first product of the animal world to be considered. As is well known,
it is obtained from the cocoon of the silk-worm. The fibres of this
material are round in shape like those of linen, and they are even
softer than the latter. On this account the phrase "as soft as silk"
has passed into a saying. It is softer to the feel than either cotton
or linen, and is a bad conductor of heat, as it has little tendency to
remove the heat from the body. It is therefore a warmer material than
either of them; but, on the other hand, from some peculiar action
caused by the slightest friction against the skin, it seems at times to
cause irritation, and draw the blood to the surface. In many instances
the flow of blood is 80 severe as to set up an eruption of the skin,
and there is often so much irritation and intolerable itching produced,
that the garment has to be left off.

Last, but not least, of the quartette under consideration comes wool,
and it is just one of those materials whose place it would be almost
impossible to fill. It is obtained from the sheep, and is one of our
chief productions in Australia. Unfortunately it is somewhat irritating
to some skins, and many persons will declare that they cannot bear the
feeling of anything woollen. Another objection may be taken to
it on cosmetic grounds, and it certainly is difficult to make a flannel
garment look attractive; but still, with a little taste in the way of
bordering, this may be overcome to a great extent. On the other hand,
it has great advantages which none of the foregoing fabrics possess,
and which have been already referred to.

Having thus minutely and scientifically examined into the properties of
the various clothing materials, it will clearly be seen that the one
which possesses the greatest advantages with the least possible
disadvantages is wool. Hence it is to be chosen in preference to all
other fabrics for wearing next the skin, because it wards off all risk
of a chill striking the body. Its disadvantages, as said before, are
mainly two, the first being that some declare it is impossible to wear
it next the skin on account of its causing irritation; this, however,
can only apply to new flannel, since after two or three washings it
feels as smooth as the most fastidious skin could desire. The next
objection, that it cannot be made to look attractive or ornamental, is
to a certain extent true; but if it is simply a question of health
VERSUS appearance, those who would sacrifice the former deserve to
suffer. In this matter we may learn a wrinkle from a practical class of
men, namely, sailors. One will find many of them pin their faith on the
virtues of an abdominal flannel bandage, reaching from the lower part
of the chest well down to the hips. It thus covers the loins and
abdomen, and for warding off attacks of lumbago and muscular
rheumatism, and for protecting the kidneys, it certainly is valuable.

A flannel under-garment reaching from the neck well down to the hips
should always be worn, and in summer it may be of a thinner material
than in the cooler weather. It is better to have four made, so that two
can be washed at a time. In this way two can be in use every
week, changing them day by day, so that one is getting thoroughly aired
while the other is being worn. The one which is being aired should be
turned inside out, so that the part which has been in contact with the
skin becomes thoroughly purified. It must be remembered, however, that
flannel is very liable to shrink from repeated washings. This may be
provided for by taking care that the under-garment, when first
obtained, is several sizes too large. In fact, it can hardly be too
large at first, especially in the case of the thicker one for the
cooler months, which shrinks much more proportionately than does the
thinner one for the hot season. This shrinking, however, can to a great
extent be presented by paying attention to the following points: These
woollen under-garments should be washed by themselves not with any
other clothes, in only moderately hot water. Next, while they are still
damp, and before becoming dry, they should be thoroughly stretched upon
a table and then well ironed out.

With regard to the sleeping apparel, there is no doubt the modern
pyjamas are a great improvement on the old-fashioned bedgown. They are
more thoroughly protective to the skin, and keep the extremities
uniformly warm, which the latter fails to do. They are better made of
flannel, thin in summer and thicker in winter. Persons who are in the
habit of wearing woollen material next the skin during the day should
certainly keep to the same at night, otherwise the change is too great,
and there is thus great risk of taking a chill. The flannel under-garment
which has been worn during the day can then be taken off at
night without any danger, and has the opportunity of being aired. It
might hardly seem necessary to refer to this fact, namely, that the
under-garment which has been worn during the day should be taken off at
night. Yet I can only say that instances in which this
particular garment is never taken off at all, but is worn continuously
both night and day, perhaps for a whole week at a time, are not
altogether so rare as they might be.

In conclusion reference may be briefly made to a subject which is
probably within the experience of everyone. There ale many people who
pride themselves on not requiring any extra clothing during the colder
months, and evidently look upon this fact as a proof that they possess
Spartan powers of endurance, and that cold is a matter of perfect
indifference to them. Now, it may be that a few individuals differ
essentially from the rest of humanity, and do not require any change of
clothing all the year round. But the majority of people who profess
this disregard to climate certainly appear as if they would be all the
better for warmer material, for their faces look pinched and their
hands seem nearly frozen with the cold. But the fact is that even if
the want of thicker clothing is not particularly felt during the cold
weather, it is always wiser to wear an extra allowance, for the heat of
summer can be endured better if this principle is carried out. If a
common-sense view of the matter is taken, then it will be readily
apparent why it is desirable to wear plenty of warm clothing during the
colder months.