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"CEPAGE," OR VARIETY.


Many words connected with viticulture are of French origin, as might be
expected considering that it is a land where the wine industry is such
a source of wealth. The term "cepage" (pronounced say-pazh) is one of
these, and it possesses quite a distinctive and particular
significance, so that a little explanation is necessary. The vine
family is divided into several species, of which the ordinary grape
vine, VITIS VINIFERA, is the most important. Of the VITIS VINIFERA
there are many, more or less distinct, sorts of "cepages"; and the
value of the word lies in the fact that it serves as a means of
distinguishing all these different varieties. Originally a native of
Asia Minor, there are now over a thousand sorts of European vines. Of
these quite a number are already cultivated in Australia, and a brief
reference to a few will help to a better understanding of the term
"cepage."

Of the red grapes the following may be instanced:--The Carbenet
(pronounced Car'-ben-ay); of which-there are two varieties, the GROS or
large, and the SAUVIGNON or smaller kind. The latter is perhaps the
choicest of all the red wine grapes, and has a characteristic flavour,
with delicious bouquet and perfume. It forms the basis of all the best
vineyards of Bordeaux, and is largely cultivated in Australia, for it
does well in the cooler parts. And it will be just as well to take this
opportunity of referring to the word "Carbenet," as in Australia it is
much too often erroneously spelt "Cabernet." The best authorities,
however, are all in favour of "Carbenet" as the proper mode of
spelling. In the same way an unfortunate orthography in the case of
Riesling, which was given as "Reisling" in the London
exhibition of 1886, gave a writer in the SATURDAY REVIEW the
opportunity of a tirade against Australian wine-makers.

The Pinot (pronounced Peen'-o) Noir or Noirier will serve excellently
to demonstrate the significance of the word "cepage." This is the
dominating grape of the best vineyards of Burgundy, and enters into the
composition of many famous wines, such as Romanee-Conti Chambertin,
Corton, &c.; just as the Carbenet Sauvignon belongs to the renowned
clarets of Bordeaux, Chateau Margaux, Chateau Lafitte, and Chateau
Latour. This black Burgundy does well in our cooler regions, and is
usually pruned short, although it gives far better results with long
pruning.

Shiraz (pronounced Shir-az') is another red variety which is
extensively cultivated in Australia. It is the grape from which the
celebrated Hermitage red wine of France is made, and was first planted
by a monk, who brought the cuttings from Shiraz, in Persia. It is one
of our most reliable red varieties, and prospers best in a moderate
temperature. But the white varieties will perhaps afford us a better
idea of the expression "cepage," for three different varieties may be
adduced, whose characteristics are well known. First of all there is
Riesling (pronounced Rees'-ling, but too often, as I have just
mentioned, erroneously spelt Reisling), whose prototype is that
delicate Riesling of the Rhine, from which those famous wines of the
Rheingau, namely Steinberg, Marcobrunner, Johannisberg, as well as
Hock, are made. It is probably the best of our white wines, and does
well in the cooler districts. But it should be borne in mind that long
pruning is indispensable for it, as it gives very poor crops when
pruned short.

Then we have Tokay (pronounced Tok'-ay), so nearly corresponding to the
Furmint, which is the chief grape grown in the well-known Tokay
vineyards of Hungary. It yields a most excellent wine, and does well in
the same regions as the preceding. And lastly, Verdeilho (pronounced
Ver-dell'-o) deserves to be referred to amongst the white wines. It is
the principal white variety grown in Madeira, and Madeira is a wine
that is especially held in repute. It is better suited for the warm
districts, and requires to be completely ripe before vintage.

It was a most fortunate thing for Australia, therefore, that her
pioneers in viticulture were men like James Busby, who obtained
their plants from the finest "cepages" in Europe. And this is a
magnificent legacy which must inevitably exercise a powerful influence
for ever on the Australian vine. Mr. Hubert de Castella drew special
attention to this very fact in his paper read before the Royal Colonial
Institute, London, in 1888: so that a beginning was made under the most
auspicious conditions.

There are some interesting facts in connection with the different
"cepages" which are certainly worth noticing. If the climate and the
soil in one place be similar to the climate and soil in another, each
variety--LE CEPAGE--of the grape will always produce the same wine.
Thus some vineyards on the Yarra, Victoria, having a similar climate
and similar soil to one of the great Bordeaux districts of France,
produced a wine hardly to be distinguished from that of the latter.
Then, again, one vine may produce a choice wine in one locality, but
only an indifferent growth in another; and, conversely, a different
"cepage" which does well in the latter region is almost a failure in
the former. For instance, in France, the Gamay in the Beaujolais
district, in which the soil is granitic, gives a superior wine to the
Pinot; but, on the other hand, the Pinot in the Burgundy country, where
there is a limestone formation, gives forth a world-famous wine, whilst
the Gamay is nowhere in comparison.

Next, it is necessary to remember that the effect of a warmer climate
is to increase the alcoholic strength of a wine. At the same time,
however, it must not be forgotten that this effect is greater in some
varieties than in others. One "cepage," giving in a cool region a wine
of 18 per cent. of alcohol, when transported to a warmer locality may
show an increase to 26 per cent. of alcohol. Another "cepage," showing
20 per cent. in the lower temperature, may only develop 23 per cent. in
the hotter districts.

It will be evident from the preceding that the greatest
discrimination is necessary in the selection of the variety for any
particular region; and from the knowledge at present at the vine-grower's
command he can do no more than form an approximate opinion of
the "cepage" likely to suit his locality best. It is recommended,
therefore, that new planters, before starting their vineyards, should
carefully observe what varieties are giving the best results at any
neighbouring vineyards; if some appear to be doing better than others,
they should stick to the successful kinds. And again, it is advisable
that they should be chary of what plants other wine-growers extol, when
perhaps the latter are in another part of the country altogether and
under totally different conditions of climate and soil. Instead of
committing themselves to a large purchase, therefore, they should plant
a selection of several varieties, and find out those which are the most
suitable.