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THE FUTURE SUCCESS OF THE AUSTRALIAN WINE INDUSTRY--AND UPON WHAT IT
DEPENDS.


Figures help us considerably more than words in enforcing a proper idea
of the magnitude to which the Australian wine industry should develop.
It will be appropriate, therefore, to preface this portion by bringing
forward a few speculative data. In an earlier part of this chapter it
was stated that the city of Paris alone requires nearly 300,000 gallons
of wine daily, and that this single city would consume in 12 days all
the wine which the whole of Australia takes 12 MONTHS to make. The
population of Paris is nearly two and a half millions, while that of
Australia is three millions odd. By considering these together it will
be seen that the wine which it takes over three million people all the
year to make, lasts another two and a half million people only 12 days.

Now, the total annual wine yield of Australia, including both that used
here and that which is exported, is only worth about 800,000 L. It
follows from the foregoing, then, that Paris will in 12 days consume
about 800,000 L. worth of wine, and for the whole year the Parisian
figures for wine consumption will reach to something like 20,000,000 L.
Let us suppose that Australia were only a wine-drinking community, as
her climate unceasingly calls for. It would be fair to assume that her
yearly wine bill would be in accordance with the following rule of
proportion. If Paris with her two and a half millions annually consumes
wine to the amount of 20,000,000 L., then Australia with her three
millions odd would surely require for her own use at least 20,000,000
l. worth year by year. And when it is remembered in addition that the
export trade should be enormously in excess of any local requirements,
it will readily be see what a magnificent future only awaits its
calling into being.

We cannot hope that our Australian wines will take a high place amongst
those of the world as long as they are not in general use by our own
people. There can be no keener reproach than to have it said: "Why,
even the Australians themselves do not drink their own wines." And this
is regrettedly the fact. It is necessary, therefore, that first of all
our people should take a very deep interest in all the details
connected with vine-growing and wine-making, and thus give some
encouragement to those who are doing their best to establish what will
ultimately become Australia's brightest glory. And it will be a good
thing for this land when a knowledge of every point in the growing of
the grape, and every step in the making of the wine, becomes part and
parcel of our daily life. The very hoardings of our streets are covered
with advertisements of countless brands of whisky, and of numberless
varieties of ale. But those setting forth the virtues of our wines are
conspicuous by their absence. It would seem that Australia, where our
own wine should be the national beverage, is almost the last country in
which to find it.

It may be asked, what are the reasons which lead to this disregard of
the virtues possessed by our own wines? The reply to this
question is not an easy matter, but I shall endeavour to answer it to
the best of my ability. The probability is, if a dozen people were
asked, at random, why Australian wine is so little used in Australia,
that at least that number of different explanations would be
forthcoming. The truth, however, is more likely to be found in a
combination of reasons, rather than from any one single cause. These
are obviously worth considering, from the very fact that the knowing of
what they consist is of the first importance in rectifying them.

I shall begin, then, by saving that the label on the bottle has much to
answer for, in that it is misleading. It does not give any idea of what
is to be found inside. Thus the word Riesling, on one bottle, may be
attached to a wine grown on the Hunter, in New South Wales, and on
another to a wine from the Yarra, in Victoria. It is true that the wine
from these two places may be grown from the same "cepage." But while
the river Yarra wine will contain perhaps 11 per cent. of alcohol, that
from the Hunter River will have quite 20 per cent.--so much does an
increase in the warmth of the climate increase the alcoholic strength
of the wine.

And while we are on the subject of labels, I must certainly take
exception to the unattractive character of those employed on the
bottles of our Australian wines. There is no reason whatever why a
little consideration should not be paid to the artistic sense in this
respect. Our wine merchants, it would appear, fail to understand the
selling power which belongs to the "get-up" of the label on a wine
bottle. I feel sure this attractiveness has a great deal to do with the
success of many products, notably in the case of the American preserved
fruits. Some of these are labelled in a manner which is creditable in
the highest degree--and what is more, from a practical point, it is no
unimportant factor in their huge sale.

Then again, there is that want of uniformity which Mr. James Smith has
so ably descanted upon, and to which I have already referred. It is bad
enough to have a wine labelled Riesling, or whatever it may be, from
one place differing entirely from a wine of the same name which comes
from some other locality. But it is a far more serious defect when the
wine of any particular place one year differs entirely from the same
wine coming from the same locality at another. For the same variety of
wine, of the same vineyard, thus to vary, year by year, is simply
unpardonable. This must not be allowed to continue, for while it exists
Australian nines will always be subject to reproach--a reproach,
indeed, which cannot be explained away.

And while dealing with these shortcomings I propose to speak of another
matter, which is by no means unimportant. I refer to the size of the
bottle. It has frequently happened that visitors to Australia hare said
to me, "I should very much like--indeed, I am anxious--to try your
Australian wines; but unfortunately I cannot drink a whole bottle at
table, and I am unable to obtain less." Now, this is undoubtedly a
grievance, and should be overcome in some way; either by putting up a
portion of our wines in smaller bottles, or else by making some
arrangement so that a smaller quantity may be obtained. Since these
lines were written, however, it is very pleasing to record the fact
that one enterprising firm in Sydney has taken a highly commendable
step in this very direction; and already smaller bottles of Australian
wine may be obtained for the low prices of 6d. and 9d.

Up to this point I have made no remarks with regard to the knowledge of
wine possessed by the majority of Australians, and yet in many respects
it is the most important of all. They are not called upon to pronounce
an opinion upon a wine, such as would be looked for from an
expert. But I do think it is very desirable that they should know, at
least, the kind of wine that is suitable for Australian use. Once this
is accomplished, and it is by no means difficult to learn, a great deal
will have been achieved. It is quite a mistake to imagine that the
value of a wine increases with its strength, and that the stronger a
wine is, the more valuable it becomes. Even in Europe itself strong
wines are going out of fashion, and lighter ones are taking their
place. People much prefer a light wine, of which they can take a fair
amount and quench their thirst, in preference to a strong wine of the
port or sherry type, of which they can only take a small wineglassful.
But in Australia, the very place where one would expect a demand for
all lighter wines, the taste for strong wines as the rule. This is
another striking example of the same antagonism to climatic environment
which is found all through our food habits. A light wine is the wine
above all others which should be most sought after. What Australia
requires as a national beverage is a wine of low alcoholic strength. It
should be so cheap as to come within the easy every-day reach of all
classes. And finally, it should take the place of all other liquids,
since it is essentially wholesome, hygienic, restorative, and cheering.

The reputation of Australian wines in the English market has hitherto
been damaged to a considerable extent by the practices which have been
followed on the part of some of the large buyers. But before referring
to these proceedings, to which Mr. Hans Irvine, of the Great Western
Vineyard, in Victoria, has so properly and powerfully drawn attention,
it must be distinctly understood that any subsequent remarks do not
apply to all the London wine-merchants. On the contrary, there are many
whose characters are irreproachable, and whose integrity is above
suspicion. By clearing the ground in this way one is enabled to
protest against the treatment which Australian wine receives in London,
without levelling charges against estimable men, who command respect,
and who deserve the gratitude of all Australians for their fair
dealings.

Well then, most of our wines purchased by English buyers have been
those of full-bodied, crude, and coarse young wines, containing a great
amount of alcohol. Two reasons have been assigned for this proceeding;
the first being that Australian wines would not bear the voyage unless
they were sufficiently strong; and the second, that in England the
demand was more particularly for such a class of wine. But many of
these firms are utterly ignorant of any special knowledge as to
treating the finer and more delicate wines. It has suited these buyers
to deal only with the stronger wines, as they are the more secured from
any loss or trouble. For the fact is, these wines, while being of a
greater alcoholic strength, are really of most excellent character and
quality. And besides this, they release certain customers, whose idea
of a good wine--even at the present time--is a wine of great body and
strength, and not so much one with that delicacy of character and
bouquet which the finer wines possess.

Some of the merchants, having but little bother with the heavier wines,
have encouraged their sale to as great an extent as possible. From this
it follows that those who prefer and habitually drink a better class of
wine have never had the opportunity of becoming acquainted with the
magnificent wines which Australia can supply. As Mr. Irvine tells us,
the higher types of fine, light, delicate, dry wines, with a richness
of bouquet, such as most districts in Australia are capable of
producing, are the kinds of wine we must look forward to for
establishing a name and fame for our produce. It is not too much to
assert that before very long Australia will be able to supply
wines whose quality will rival the choicest vintages of the most famous
vineyards of Europe. Even as it is, the delicacy of bouquet and
excellent characters of many of the Australian red and white wines have
fairly astonished connoisseurs on being submitted to them.

It seems a thousand pities, then, that such misconception should exist
with regard to our wines. And quite undeservedly so, for as a matter of
fact these lighter wines are most unfairly neglected. They simply
require to be properly fined and carefully attended to. The casks in
which they are shipped should be thoroughly cleansed and treated before
being filled, in order to take out any taint of spirits they may
contain; or any excess of tannin, which is always present in Dew wood.
If these different matters be looked to they will improve to a
wonderful extent on the voyage, and after being allowed a week or
fortnight's rest on arrival, they will be found in a highly
satisfactory condition. After this time these delicate wines of a low
alcoholic strength require to be duly cared for. But they are worth a
little extra attention, for it is absolutely certain that through them,
and through them alone, will our Australian wines be accorded the merit
and the appreciation which they so undoubtedly deserve.

It must not be imagined, however, that the foregoing is the only
handicap which Australian wine has to carry. In other cases there are
many reprehensible proceedings adopted, which irretrievably injure the
reputation of our wines in the English market. Some of the inferior
wines are shipped home and "restored," by blending them with full,
heavy, rich wines from warmer districts. When "clothed" in this way,
their imperfections are for a time hidden, but the bad soon
contaminates the whole. It is true that a good, sound, and well-made
wine improves with age. But with these "restored" and "clothed"
wines the reverse happens, and they become worse and worse by keeping.

Then again, many of the widely advertised Australian wines in the old
country are sold too young; and unfortunately these young wines
constitute the bulk of the trade done with England. They are bottled
when too green and crude, and have not been given a sufficient time in
cask to develop into high-class wines. They must be allowed to acquire
a proper amount of cask ripeness, and if they were stored and attended
to for twelve months before being bottled they would vastly improve. In
some cases, also, wines are shipped from Australia before they are
twelve months old, and as they are usually fined, bottled, and sold as
soon as possible after arrival, it has actually happened that the
British public have repeatedly drunk wines that are hardly one year
old. Indeed, the wines are frequently bottled when in a state of
fermentation, consequently secondary fermentation goes on in the
bottle, and the bottles are often shattered by an explosion. And more
than this, they are often badly blended; they do not receive sufficient
care and attention; and they are not uncommonly in the hands of a few
men whose sole object is to make money.

There is still something further which is greatly prejudicial to the
fair name of Australian wine, and it is this: Many of the wine
merchants hold very small stocks, so that any one supply soon runs out
and is no longer obtainable. As a result it is urged against the wines
that they are not constant, and that it is impossible to procure the
same wine twice running. With larger stocks, too, there would be some
certainty that the wine was matured, as for example with a merchant
holding a three years' supply. In this case, also, the consumer would
be enabled to obtain a continued supply of any particular wine
to which he might have become attached.

My own belief, however, is that the most powerful impetus to our wine
industry will arise from the Australians themselves taking an interest
in all that concerns this great source of health, wealth, and
employment. I have said so before, and take this opportunity of saying
so again. Let our people take an active interest in every detail
connected with the growing of the grape, and with the making of the
wine! Let a light, wholesome wine, also, enter into the daily dietary
of the whole people! For the national drink for Australian use is
unquestionably a wine of low alcoholic strength; a wine of a sufficient
age to be free from any reproach of newness; and a wine possessing
those qualities which render it wholesome, beneficial, hygienic,
cheering, and restorative.

There are two other matters which require to be noticed before leaping
the whole subject of Australian wine. The first of these is a reference
to the establishment of Viticultural Colleges, and it is one of very
great importance, because it has much to do with the development of the
wine industry. Now, I am not one of those who look to the State for
everything, but it seems to me that if you recognise the necessity of
State education, you must at least equally recognise the necessity of
affording the youthful population of Australia the opportunity of
learning that which must eventually develop into the one distinctive
industry of this land. France at the present day, even with her
unrivalled reputation as the wine-growing country of the world, avails
herself of the advantages of Viticultural Colleges. Italy, also, by
means of their help is making strides in a manner actually bordering on
the miraculous. If these countries, then, in which vine-growing and
winemaking have been carried on for centuries find Viticultural
Colleges indispensable, how much more must a young country, with its
wine industry quite undeveloped, need them!

It must with confidence be said, therefore, that Australia cannot do
without these Viticultural Colleges. Something has already been done by
the establishment of Agricultural Colleges, and this is most
commendable. But what I believe is this, that a wine-grower must be a
wine-grower and nothing else. To know everything connected with the
growth of the grape and cellar management thoroughly is quite enough
for any ordinary man to attempt to master. Therefore viticulture must
either be made a distinctly separate course at the Agricultural
Colleges; or, what if better still, Viticultural Colleges must be
established for the purpose alone.

At Montpellier, in France, the course of viticultural education is
elaborately comprehensive, and includes the study of the anatomy of the
vine, its flowers, leaves, seeds, &c. The pupils become thoroughly
acquainted with every variety of wine in practical form; they see it
grow, learn the art of pruning, and of everything pertaining to the
growth of the vine. They also master all the details connected with
grafting, the laying out of vineyards, the diseases to which the vine
is liable, and the remedies which are most effectual. And, in addition,
there is minute instruction in every step in cellar management and the
after care and treatment of the wine itself, from the start to the
finish. In this way the subject is studied from a thoroughly scientific
standpoint, with a result that influences for good the whole of French
viticulture.

But if the benefits derived from the establishment of Viticultural
Colleges in France are thus remarkable, those which have followed their
introduction into Italy are nothing less than wonderful. The School of
Viticulture at Conegliano has been the means of increasing the
wine production of Italy to an incredible extent. In 1870 Italy
exported only 4,000,000 gallons of wine; yet in 1890, in the short
space of twenty years, this had risen to 88,000,000 gallons. This
school has taught the people to make good wine; it has induced people
who had never dreamt of it to plant vineyards; it hag led people to
plant them properly, since they were shown the way on a rational
principle; and lastly, they have thus learnt how to make wine on a
scientific basis. The course of study there is extremely severe, and as
a result all those who receive diplomas from it thoroughly understand
the cultivation of the vine and the management of the cellar. This
School of Viticulture has been such a phenomenal success that other
provinces of Italy brought pressure upon the Government. As a
consequence therefrom, secondary schools have been established at many
places, notably Gioia del Colle, Pozzuolo, Tmola, Avellino, Alda,
Catania, &c.

In conclusion, there is that other most important matter to which I
should like to draw attention. It is to advocate the establishment of
an Australian Wine-Growers' Association on a federal basis. The
advantage resulting from the formation of a strong Association, with a
numerically powerful membership roll, would be very great. Such an
organization would be well able to conduct a weekly paper of its own,
with contributors from all the different colonies. There would be no
dearth of literary material, for the whole subject is one teeming with
interest. Even now a substantial beginning has been made, and THE
AUSTRALIAN VIGNERON AND FRUIT-GROWERS JOURNAL is well deserving of
success, and is already doing good work in this very direction. And
besides the foregoing, an Intercolonial Wine-Growers' Congress should
meet annually at the different Australian metropolitan centres (Sydney,
Melbourne, Adelaide, Brisbane, &c.), in rotation, where there
would be the opportunity of discussing theoretical questions, and of
tasting practical results. In all these many ways public interest in
the Australian wine industry would be continually sustained; and,
rising from its unfairly neglected position, it would speedily attain
to that pride of place which is manifestly its destiny.