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THE ELEGANT ART OF DINING
Artistic Japan
We wish it were in our power to describe a certain dinner as served us
in a Japanese restaurant in the days that followed the great fire.
Desiring to observe in fitting manner a birthday anniversary, we asked a
Japanese friend if he could secure admission for a little party at a
restaurant noted for serving none but the highest class Japanese. We did
not even know where the restaurant was but had heard of such a place,
and when we received word that we would be permitted to have a dinner
there we invited a newspaper friend who was in the city from New York,
together with two other friends and the Japanese, who was the editor of
the Soko Shimbun. He took us to a dwelling house in O'Farrell street,
having given previous notice of our coming. There was nothing on the
outside to indicate that it was anything but a residence, but when we
were ushered into the large front room, we found it beautifully
decorated with immense chrysanthemums, and glittering with silver and
cut glass on a magnificently arranged table.
In deference to the fact that all but our Japanese friend were
unaccustomed to chopsticks, forks were placed on the table as well as
the little sticks that the Orientals use so deftly. At each place was a
beautiful lacquer tray, about twelve by eighteen inches, a pair of
chopsticks, a fork and a teaspoon. Before the meal was over several of
us became quite expert in using the chopsticks.
When we were seated in came two little Japanese women, in full native
costume, bearing a service of tea. The cups and saucers were of a most
delicate blue and white ware, with teapot to match. Our first cup was
taken standing in deference to a Japanese custom where all drank to the
host. Then followed saki in little artistic bottles and saki cups that
hold not much more than a double tablespoonful. Saki is the Japanese
wine made of rice, and is taken in liberal quantities. At each serving
some one drank to some one else, then a return of the compliment was
necessary. Having always heard that Orientals turned menus topsy-turvy
we were not at all surprised when the little serving women brought to
each of us two silver plates and set them on our trays. These plates
contained what appeared to be cake, one seeming to be angel food with
icing, and the other fruit cake with the same covering. With these came
bowls of soup, served in lacquer ware, made of glutinous nests of
swallows, and also a salad made of shark fins. We ate the soup and salad
and found it good, and then made tentative investigation of the "cake."
To our great surprise we discovered the angel food to be fish and the
"icing" was shredded and pressed lobster. The "fruitcake" developed into
pressed dark meat of chicken, with an icing of pressed and glazed white
meat of the same fowl.
Following this came the second service of tea, this time in cups of a
rare yellow color and beautiful design, with similar teapot.
The next course was a mixture of immature vegetables, served in a sort
of saute. These were sprouting beans, lentils, peas and a number of
others with which we were unfamiliar. The whole was delicately flavored
with a peculiar sauce.
After a short wait, during which the saki bottles circulated freely, one
of the women came in bearing aloft a large silver tray on which reposed
a mammoth crayfish, or California lobster. This appeared to be covered
with shredded cocoanut, and when it was placed before the host for
serving he was at loss, for no previous experience told him what to do.
It developed that the shredded mass on top was the meat of the lobster
which had been removed leaving the shell-fish in perfect form. It was
served cold, with a peculiar sauce.
Now followed the piece de resistance. A tub of water was brought in and
in this was swimming a live fish, apparently of the carp family. After
being on view for a few minutes it was removed and soon the handmaidens
appeared with thinly sliced raw fish, served with soy sauce. Ordinarily
one can imagine nothing more repulsive than a dish of raw fish, but we
were tempted and did eat, and found it most delicious, delicate, and
with a flavor of raw oysters.
Next came the third service of tea, this time in a deep red ware. Then
came a dessert of unusual flavor and appearance, followed by preserved
ginger and fruit.
It must be remembered that during the meal, which lasted from seven
until past midnight, saki was served constantly yet no one felt its
influence in more than a sense of increased exhilaration. It is
customary to let the emptied bottles remain on the table until the close
of the meal, and there was a mighty showing.
It was impossible to eat all that was set before us, but Japanese custom
forbids such a breach of etiquette as an indication that the food was
not perfection, consequently the serving maids appeared bearing six
carved teak boxes, and placed one at each plate. Into these we arranged
the food that was unconsumed, and when we went away we carried it with
us. To cap the climax the Japanese stripped the room of its bounteous
decoration of chrysanthemums and piled them into our arms and we went
home loaded with food and flowers.
Proprietor and all his household accompanied us to the door with many
bows and gesticulations, wishing us best of luck, and we went back to
our homes in the desolated city with the feeling of having been
transported to Fairyland of the Orient.
We discovered later that our Japanese friend was of the family of the
Emperor and was here on a diplomatic mission.
The Elegant Art of Dining
Contents
Foreword
The Good Gray City
The Land of Bohemia
When the Gringo Came
Early Italian Impression
Birth of the French Restaurant
At the Cliff House
Some Italian Restaurants
Impress of Mexico
On the Barbary Coast
The City That Was Passes
Bohemia of the Present
As it is in Germany
In the Heart of Italy
A Breath of the Orient
Artistic Japan
Old and New Palace
At the Hotel St. Francis
Amid the Bright Lights
Around Little Italy
Where Fish Come In
Fish in Their Variety
Where Fish Abound
Some Food Variants
About Dining
Something About Cooking
Told in A Whisper
Out of Nothing
Paste Makes Waist
Tips and Tipping
The Mythical Land
A Good Bohemian Dinner
Restaurant Famous Recipes
Appendix (How to Serve Wines, Recipes)
Art of Dining Index
Mailing Lists
Forums
Webrings
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