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THE ELEGANT ART OF DINING
As it is in Germany
When you see August (do not fail to pronounce it Owgoost) in repose you
involuntarily say, that is if you understand German, "Mir ist alles an,"
which is the German equivalent of "I should worry." When August is in
action you immediately get a thirst that nothing but a stein of cold
beer will quench. August is the pride of the Heidelberg Inn at 35 Ellis
street. All you can see from the street as you pass around the corner
from Market, is a sign and some stairs leading down into a basement, but
do not draw back just because it is a basement restaurant, for if you do
you will miss one of the very few real Bohemian restaurants of San
Francisco. Possibly our point of view will not coincide with that of
others, but while there are dozens of other Bohemian restaurants there
is but one Heidelberg Inn. Here is absolute freedom from irksome
conventionality of other people, and none of the near Bohemianism of so
many places claiming the title.
At the Heidelberg Inn one need never fear obtrusiveness on the part of
other visitors, for here everybody attends strictly to his or her own
party, enjoying a camaraderie that has all the genuine, whole-souled
companionship found only where German families are accustomed to
congregate to seek relaxation from the toil and worry of the day.
An evening spent in Heidelberg Inn is one replete with character study
that cannot be excelled anywhere in San Francisco--and this means that
everybody there is worth while as a study, from the little, bald-headed
waiter, Heme, and the big, imposing waiter, August, to the "Herr Doctor"
who comes to forget the serious surgical case that has been worrying him
at the hospital. Here you do not find obtrusive waiters brushing
imaginary crumbs from your chair with obsequious hand, nor over zealous
stewards solicitous of your food's quality. It is all perfect because it
is made perfect by good management. Here are German families, from
Grossfader and Grossmutter, down to the newest grandchild, sitting and
enjoying their beer and listening to such music as can be heard nowhere
else in San Francisco, as they eat their sandwiches of limburger, or
more dainty dishes according to their tastes.
One can almost imagine himself in one of the famous rathskellers of Old
Heidelberg--not at the Schloss, of course, for here you cannot look
down on the Weiser as it flows beneath the windows of the great wine
stube on the hill. But you have the real atmosphere, and this is
enhanced by the mottoes in decoration and the flagons, stems and plaques
that adorn the pillars as well as typical German environment.
It is when the martial strains of "De Wacht am Rhein" are heard from the
orchestra, which of itself is an institution, that the true camaraderie
of the place is appreciated, for then guests, waiters, barkeepers, and
even the eagle-eyed gray-haired manager, join in the swelling chorus,
and you can well understand why German soldiers are inspired to march to
victory when they hear these stirring chords.
But there is other music--sometimes neither inspiring nor beautiful
when heard in a German rathskeller--the music of rag time. If there is
anything funnier than a German orchestra trying to play rag-time music
we have never heard it. It is unconscious humor on part of the
orchestra, consequently is all the more excruciating.
But if you really love good music--music that has melody and rhythm and
soothing cadences, go to the Heidelberg Inn and listen to the concert
which is a feature of the place every evening. And while you are
listening to the music you can enjoy such food as is to be found nowhere
else in San Francisco, for it is distinctly Heidelbergian. We asked for
the recipe that they considered the very best in the restaurant, and
Hirsch, with a shrug of his shoulders, said: "Oh, we have so many fine
dishes." We finally got him to select the one prized above all others
and this is what Chef Scheiler gave us:
German Sauer Braten
Take four pounds of clear beef, from either the shoulder or rump, and
pickle it for two days in one-half gallon of claret and one-half gallon
of good wine vinegar (not cider). To the pickle add two large onions cut
in quarters, two fresh carrots and about one ounce of mixed whole
allspice, black peppers, cloves and bay leaves.
When ready for cooking take the meat out of the brine and put in a
roasting pan. Put in the oven and brown to a golden color. Then take it
out of the roasting pan and put it into a casserole, after sprinkling it
with two ounces of flour. Put into the oven again and cook for half an
hour, basting frequently with the original brine.
When done take the meat out of the sauce. Strain the sauce through a
fine collander and add a few raisins, a piece of honey cake, or ginger
snaps and the meat of one fresh tomato. Season with salt and pepper and
a little sugar to taste. Slice and serve with the sauce over it.
For those who like German dishes and German cooking it is not necessary
to confine yourself to the Heidelberg Inn, for both the Hof Brau, in
Market just above Fourth street, and the German House Rathskeller, at
Turk and Polk streets are good places where you can get what you want.
The Hof Brau, however, is less distinctively German as the greater
number of its patrons are Americans. The specialty of the Hof Brau is
abalone's, and they have as a feature this shell fish cooked in several
ways. They also have as the chef in charge of the abalone dishes,
Herbert, formerly chef for one of the yacht clubs of the coast, who
claims to have the only proper recipe for making abalone's tender. Under
ordinary circumstances the abalone is tough and unpalatable, but after
the deft manipulation of Herbert they are tender and make a fine dish,
either fried, as chowder or a la Newberg. In addition to abalone's the
Hof Brau makes a specialty of little Oregon crawfish. While there is a
distinctive German atmosphere at the Rathskeller of the German House,
the place is too far out to gather such numbers as congregate at either
the Heidelberg or the Hof Brau, but one can get the best of German
cooking here and splendid service, and for a quiet little "Dutch supper"
we know of no place that will accommodate you better than the
Rathskeller.
On special occasions, when some German society or club is giving a dance
or holding a meeting at the German House, the Rathskeller is the most
typical German place in San Francisco, and if you go at such a time you
will get all the "atmosphere" you will desire, as well as the best the
market affords in the way of good viands.
The Elegant Art of Dining
Contents
Foreword
The Good Gray City
The Land of Bohemia
When the Gringo Came
Early Italian Impression
Birth of the French Restaurant
At the Cliff House
Some Italian Restaurants
Impress of Mexico
On the Barbary Coast
The City That Was Passes
Bohemia of the Present
As it is in Germany
In the Heart of Italy
A Breath of the Orient
Artistic Japan
Old and New Palace
At the Hotel St. Francis
Amid the Bright Lights
Around Little Italy
Where Fish Come In
Fish in Their Variety
Where Fish Abound
Some Food Variants
About Dining
Something About Cooking
Told in A Whisper
Out of Nothing
Paste Makes Waist
Tips and Tipping
The Mythical Land
A Good Bohemian Dinner
Restaurant Famous Recipes
Appendix (How to Serve Wines, Recipes)
Art of Dining Index
Mailing Lists
Forums
Webrings
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