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THE ELEGANT ART OF DINING
Famous Recipes
In our travels through Bohemia it has been our good fortune to gather
hundreds of recipes of new, strange and rare dishes, prepared by those
who look farther than the stoking of the physical system in the
preparation of foods. Some of these are from chefs in restaurants and
hotels, some from men and women of the foreign colonies and some from
good friends who lent their aid in our pleasurable occupation. That we
cannot print them all in a volume of this size is our regret, but
another book now in preparation will contain them, together with other
talks about San Francisco's foreign quarters.
From our store we have selected the following as being well worth
trying:
Onion Soup
Cut four large onions in large pieces and put them in six ounces of
butter with pepper and salt. Slowly stew this in a little beef stock and
a little milk, stirring constantly, for one hour. Add more stock and
milk and let cook slowly for another hour. In a tureen place slices of
bread sprinkled with two tablespoonfuls of Parmesan cheese. Beat the
yolks of four eggs and mix them with a tablespoonful of the soup and
pour this over the bread and cheese. Cover this for five minutes and
then pour over it the rest of the soup.
Creole Gumbo Soup
Take two young chickens, cut in pieces, roll in flour and fry to light
brown. Take the fried chicken, a ham bone stripped of meat for flavor, a
tablespoonful of chopped thyme, of rosemary, two bay leaves, a sprig of
tarragon and boil in four quarts of water until the meat loosens from
the bones. Slice and fry brown two large onions and add two heaping
quarts of sliced okra and one cut up pod of red pepper. Stir all over
the fire until the okra is thoroughly wilted then remove the larger
bones and let cook three quarters of an hour before serving. Half an
hour before serving add a can of tomatoes or an equal quantity of fresh
ones, and a pint of shrimps, boiled and shredded. Have a dish of well
boiled and dry rice and serve with two or three tablespoonfuls in each
soup plate.
Oyster Salad
To a solid pint of oysters use a dressing made as follows: Beat well two
eggs and add to them half a gill each of cream and vinegar, half
teaspoonful mustard, celery seed, salt each, one-tenth teaspoonful
cayenne, and a tablespoonful of butter. Put all in a double boiler and
cook until it all is as thick as soft custard (about six minutes),
stirring constantly. Take from the fire. Heat the oysters in their own
liquor to a boiling point then drain and add the dressing, mixing
lightly. Set away in cold place until needed.
Italian Salad
Soak two salt herrings in milk over night and then remove the bones and
skin and cut up in small pieces. Cut in small pieces one and one-half
pounds each of cold roast veal and cold boiled tongue and add to these
and the herrings six boiled potatoes, half a dozen small cucumber
pickles and two small boiled beets, all cut up, and two raw apples,
three boiled carrots and one large boiled celery root, all minced. Mix
all the above in salad bowl and pour over it mayonnaise dressing.
Garnish the tops with hard boiled eggs, sliced, and capers, and ripe
olives from which the stones have been removed. Garnish the bowl with
parsley and in the center put hard boiled eggs stuffed with capers.
Solari's Crab Louis
Take meat of crab in large pieces and dress with the following:
One-third mayonnaise, two-thirds chili sauce, small quantity chopped
English chow-chow, a little Worcestershire sauce and minced tarragon,
shallots and sweet parsley. Season with salt and pepper and keep on ice.
Soles with Wine
Take fillets of sole and pound lightly with blade of knife then soak
them two hours in beaten eggs seasoned with salt and pepper. When ready
to cook roll them in bread crumbs and fry in olive oil. Take a little of
that oil and put in another pan with a tablespoonful of butter and
season with salt and pepper and again cook fish in this, adding half a
glass of dry white wine. Sprinkle with chopped parsley and let cook five
minutes. Sprinkle with Parmesan cheese and put slices of lemon around
it. Serve on hot plates.
Grilled Mushrooms
Skin and remove stalks from large fresh mushrooms and lay on a dish with
a little fine olive oil, pepper, and salt, over them for one hour. Broil
on a gridiron over a clear sharp fire and serve them with the following
sauce:
Mushroom Sauce
Mince the stalks or any spare pieces of mushrooms fine, put in a stewpan
with a little broth, some chopped parsley, young onions, butter and the
juice of a lemon, or instead of the latter the yolk of an egg beaten up
in cream. Beat all together and pour around the mushrooms.
Italian Turta
Cut very fine the tender part of one dozen artichokes. Take one loaf of
stale bread crumbs, moisten and squeeze, and add three tablespoonfuls of
grated cheese, three cloves of garlic, bruised, one onion chopped fine,
several sprigs of parsley chopped fine, a little celery and half a cup
of olive oil. Mix all together thoroughly with plenty of pepper and salt
and make into a loaf. Bake slowly forty-five minutes.
Oeuffs Au Soliel
Poach eight fresh eggs then take them out and place in cold water until
cool; lay them for a quarter of an hour to marinade in a glass of white
wine with sweet herbs. Dry on a cloth and dip in a batter of flour mixed
with equal quantities of ale and water to the consistency of double
cream. Fry to light brown.
Eggs with Wine
Put three cupfuls of red wine Into a casserole and add three
tablespoonfuls of sugar, rind of half a lemon, raisins, and sweet
almonds, blanched and chopped. When the wine boils break the eggs into
it as in poaching eggs. Let them cook well and then put in serving dish.
Add one tablespoonful of flour to the wine and cook to a cream then pour
over the eggs.
Italian Risotto
Soak two level teacups of rice. Mash two cloves of garlic and mix with a
little minced parsley. Soak a dozen dried mushrooms in a little water
until soft, then chop fine and drain. Cover the bottom of a saucepan
with olive oil, place over the fire until quite hot, then put in the
garlic, parsley, and mushrooms, add half a can of tomatoes and cook half
an hour. Drain the rice and put in a saucepan, adding a little broth,
half a cup at a time, to keep from burning, and add, stirring
constantly, the other ingredients, cooking all together until the rice
is done. Salt to taste; sprinkle with Parmesan cheese.
Scallops of Sweetbread
Parboil the sweetbreads and then glaze in reduced Allemande sauce. Dip
in bread crumbs and fry in butter until a light brown. When done dish in
close order and fill center with Toulouse Ragout, as follows:
Toulouse Ragout
Prepare half a dozen fine, large cockscombs, two dozen button mushrooms,
small pieces of sweetbreads and a proportionate quantity of truffles.
Place all in a stewpan and add a small ladleful of drawn butter sauce,
and the juice of a lemon. Cook a few minutes.
Lamb Chops Marinade
Soak kidney lamb chops in the following mixture for twelve hours and
then broil: Four tablespoonfuls olive oil, one tablespoonful tarragon
vinegar, one small sliced onion, one mashed clove of garlic, one broken
up bay leaf, twelve whole black peppers, six cloves, one saltspoon of
salt, two teaspoonfuls dried thyme, strips of parsley and lemon peel.
Spanish Chicken Pie
Cut up a chicken and boil until tender. Cut up and fry in chicken fat
two onions, two green peppers, stirring in one and one-half
tablespoonfuls of flour. Have ready five tomatoes, stewed, and put in
two dozen ripe olives with a small clove of garlic, mashed. Grate seven
large ears of corn, season with salt and put a layer in a greased baking
pan, then chicken, then the other ingredients, with a little of the
gravy. Stir all together and bake until brown.
Chicken Jambalaya
Cut a young chicken into small pieces and stew until tender, having the
meat covered with the broth when done. Remove the meat, drain and fry to
light brown with two slices of onion. Put in the chicken, onion, and one
hundred California oysters, back into the broth and season with salt,
pepper, juice of a lemon, bruised clove of garlic, chopped green pepper,
and a pinch of red pepper. Let all come to a boil. Wash and dry two cups
of rice and put into the soup and cook until thoroughly done and
moderately dry (twenty-five minutes). Serve hot or cold.
Quajatale En Mole
This is Mexican Turkey in Red Pepper, a favorite banquet dish. Cut a
young turkey into small pieces and boil with shallots and salt. Take
half a pound of red peppers, scalded and seeded, and grind fine with
black peppers, celery seed, cloves, allspice, and mustard (about half a
teaspoonful of each) and add to this some of the broth in which the
turkey was cooked. Put a pound of lard in a skillet and, when boiling,
put in the mixture with the turkey and let cook ten minutes, sending it
to the table hot.
Delmonico Raisin Sauce
Brown butter in a skillet and stir in a teaspoonful of flour, forming a
smooth paste. Add one cup of hot soup stock, stirring constantly. While
boiling put into this a handful of raisins, handful of blanched almonds,
pounded, half a lemon, sliced thin, a few cloves, a pinch of cinnamon,
and a little horseradish. Fine for roast beef.
Poulet a la Napoli
Cut and trim a chicken as for fricassee. Take the wings, drumsticks,
thighs and two pieces of the breast and steep them in cold water half an
hour. Drain and wipe dry and dust over with flour and set aside.
Take the rest of the chicken with the giblets and chop small. With water
let this simmer for two hours, making a strong broth with a little veal
(two ounces or more). Slice an onion into rings which place in the
bottom of a stewpan with an ounce of butter. To this add the meat and
giblets and a pint of white broth. Let all simmer but not boil or let
color. Over this pour common broth until covered and bring slowly to
boiling point. Add a small bouquet of herbs and simmer for an hour, then
strain. Thicken a little and then simmer in this the stalks and peelings
of a quarter of a pound of mushrooms and the chicken that was previously
prepared and dusted with flour. When done strain them and drain the
chicken. Strain the sauce and thicken with flour until it is of the
consistency of a rather thin batter.
Dip the pieces of chicken into the batter until well coated and set
aside until it is cold. Then dip the chicken into well-beaten eggs and
cover with bread crumbs. Let set and then repeat. In hot olive oil fry
the chicken until a golden brown. Serve on a napkin and garnish with
parsley and potatoes Duchesse. Cook the peeled mushrooms in the
remaining sauce before the last thickening, and serve in gravy boat to
pour over the chicken.
Zabaione
Beat together, hard, for six minutes, six eggs and four teaspoonfuls of
powdered sugar in a double boiler and place over a gentle fire, never
ceasing to whip until the contents become stiff enough to sustain a
coffee spoon upright in the middle. While whipping add three
wine-glassfuls of Marsala and one liqueur glass of Maraschino brandy.
Pour into tall glasses or cups and serve either hot or cold.
Peaches a la Princesse
Halve six fine peaches, not too ripe, and place in saucepan with concave
side up. Take one peach, peeled, and mince with a dozen macaroons,
adding the yolk of an egg and half an ounce of sugar. Mix all well
together and with this fill the half peaches. Moisten all with half a
cup of white wine and sprinkle with sugar. Bake in a hot oven ten
minutes and pour over zabaione and serve. This will make a most
delicious dessert dish.
Sultana Roll
Add the beaten yolks of seven eggs to one pint of boiling milk, one cup
of sugar, one-half teaspoonful of vanilla, one-quarter teaspoonful of
almond extract. When thick add two and a half cups of thick cream. Cool
and freeze. Line the bottom of a mold with Sultana raisins which have
been soaked in sherry wine twenty-four hours. Put a layer of frozen
cream, then raisins, continuing until all is used. Pack in ice and salt
two hours and serve with caramel sauce.
Caramel Sauce
Butter the inside of a saucepan. Put in two ounces of unsweetened
chocolate and melt over hot water. Add two cups of light brown sugar and
mix well. Add one ounce of butter and half a cup of rich milk. Cook
until mixture forms a soft ball when tested in cold water. Flavor with
vanilla and pour, while hot, over each service of the roll. It
immediately hardens, forming a delicious caramel covering to the ice
cream.
Welsh Rarebit
Take one pound of mild American cheese and put in saucepan. Add five
wineglassful of old ale, place over the fire and stir until it is
thoroughly blended and melted. Pour this over slices of delicately
browned toast, serving hot.
Coffee Royal
Take of the best Mocha coffee one part, of the best Java coffee two
parts. Put six tablespoonfuls of the mixture into a bowl and add an egg,
well beaten. Stir the mixture five minutes. Add half a cup of cold
water, cover tightly and let stand several hours. Put into a coffeepot
the coffee mixture and add four large cups of boiling water, stirring
constantly. Let it boil briskly for five minutes only then set on the
back of the stove five minutes. Before serving add a small tablespoonful
of pure French brandy to each cup. Sweeten to taste.
Reina Cabot
Mix at table and serve on hot, toasted Bent's biscuit. Take a quarter of
a pound of ripe, dark Roquefort cheese and rub with a piece of butter
the size of a walnut until smooth, adding a teaspoonful of
Worcestershire sauce and a wineglassful of sherry, with a pinch of
paprika, rubbing until it is smooth. This is best mixed in shallow bowl
or soup plate.
Virginia Egg Nog
Beat separately the yolks and whites of ten eggs, the yolks to a soft
cream. To the beaten yolks add one pound of granulated sugar, beating
until fully blended and very light. Let one quart of fresh milk come to
a boil and pour over the yolk of egg and sugar, stirring constantly
until well blended. To this add one gill of French brandy or one-half
pint of good whisky. On top of this place the beaten white of egg and
grated nutmeg. Serve either hot or cold.
Mint Julep
Bruise several sprigs of mint in a mixing glass with pulverized sugar.
Fill the glass with ice and pour over it a jigger of whisky. Let stand
for ten minutes and then put in a dash of Jamaica rum. Dress with sprigs
of mint, and sprinkle with powdered sugar. Serve with straws.
The Elegant Art of Dining
Contents
Foreword
The Good Gray City
The Land of Bohemia
When the Gringo Came
Early Italian Impression
Birth of the French Restaurant
At the Cliff House
Some Italian Restaurants
Impress of Mexico
On the Barbary Coast
The City That Was Passes
Bohemia of the Present
As it is in Germany
In the Heart of Italy
A Breath of the Orient
Artistic Japan
Old and New Palace
At the Hotel St. Francis
Amid the Bright Lights
Around Little Italy
Where Fish Come In
Fish in Their Variety
Where Fish Abound
Some Food Variants
About Dining
Something About Cooking
Told in A Whisper
Out of Nothing
Paste Makes Waist
Tips and Tipping
The Mythical Land
A Good Bohemian Dinner
Restaurant Famous Recipes
Appendix (How to Serve Wines, Recipes)
Art of Dining Index
Mailing Lists
Forums
Webrings
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