|
|
THE ELEGANT ART OF DINING
The Mythical Land
Notwithstanding the fact that Webster gives no recognition in his
dictionary to the Land of Bohemia or the occupants thereof, the land
exists, perhaps not in a material way, but certainly mentally. Some have
not the perception to see it; some know not the language that admits
entrance; some pass it by every day without understanding it. Yet it as
truly exists as any of the lands told of in our childhood fables and
fairy stories.
The old definition of Bohemian was "a vagabond, a wayfarer." Possibly
that definition may, to a certain extent, be true of the present-day
Bohemian, for he is a mental vagabond and a mental wayfarer.
In our judgment the word comes from the French "Bon Homme," for surely
the Bohemian is a "good man."
Whatever may be the derivation the fact remains that not to all is given
the perception to understand, nor the eyes to see, and therein lies one
of the dangers of writing such a book as this. If you read this and then
hurry off to a specified restaurant with the expectation of finding the
Bohemian atmosphere in evidence you are apt to be disappointed, for
frequently it is necessary to create your own Bohemian atmosphere.
Then, too, all nights are not the same at restaurants. For instance if
you desire the best service afforded in any restaurant do not select
Saturday or Sunday night, but if you will lay aside your desire for
personal comfort in service, and wish to study character, then take
Saturday or Sunday night for your visit. It is very possible that you
will think the restaurant has changed hands between Friday and Saturday.
On Saturday and Sunday evening the mass of San Francisco's great
cosmopolitan population holds holiday and the great feature of the
holiday is a restaurant dinner, where there is music, and glitter, and
joyous, human companionship. At such times waiters become careless and
sometimes familiar. Cooks are rushed to such an extent that they do not
give the care to their preparation that they take pride in on other
nights, consoling themselves frequently with the thought that the
Saturday and Sunday night patrons do not know or appreciate the highest
form of gastronomic art.
Remember, also, that the world is a looking glass. Smile into it and it
smiles back; frown and you get black looks. In Bohemia we sometimes find
it well to overlook soiled table napery, sanded floor or untidy
appearance. Of course this is not in the higher class of restaurants,
but there are times and places when you must remember you are making a
study of human interest and not getting a meal, and you must leave your
fastidiousness and squeamishness at home.
It takes some time to get well within the inner circle of Bohemianism,
but after you have arrived you have the password and all doors are open
to you. If our friends think of a new story they save it up until our
next coming and tell us something that always has a bearing on Bohemia.
For instance, how few of us know the origin of the menu card. It seems
to be a natural thing, yet, like all things, it had a beginning, and
this is the way it began (according to a good friend who told it to us):
Frederick the Great was a lover of good eating and his chef took pride
in providing new and rare dishes for his delectation. But it frequently
occurred that the great ruler permitted his appetite to overcome his
judgment, and he would eat so heartily of the food first set before him
that when later and more delicious dishes came to the table he was
unable to do them justice. To obviate this he ordered his chef to
prepare each day a list of what was to be served, and to show their
rotation during the meal, and in compliance with this order the first
menu card was written. To Frederick the Great is also attributed the
naming of the German bread now called pumpernickel. According to one of
our Italian friends the story runs this way: Frederick wished some bread
and his chef sent him in a loaf that was of unusual color and flavor. It
did not please the king and he was not slow to express his disapproval.
He owned a horse named Nicholas but commonly called "Nicho!" and when
the chef appeared before him to receive his censure for sending in
distasteful bread, Frederick threw the loaf at his head, exclaiming,
"Bon pour Nichol." From this it received its name which has become
corrupted to "pumpernickel."
After the doors are open to you, you will find not only many new
stories, but you will learn of customs unusual and discover their origin
dating back to the days whose history remains only in Folk Lore. You
will be let into family secrets of the alien quarters, and will learn of
hopes, aspirations, and desires, that will startle you with their
strangeness. You will find artists, sculptors, and writers of verse in
embryo, and if you remain long enough in the atmosphere you may see, as
we have, some of these embryonic thinkers achieve fame that becomes
nation wide.
It is said of the Islands of the South Seas that when one eats of
certain fruit it creates such a longing that the mind is never content
until another visit is made. San Francisco's Bohemia lays no claim to
persuasive fruit, but it is true that when one breathes in the
atmosphere of this mythical world it leaves an unrest that is only
appeased by a return to where the whispering winds tell of Enchanted
Land where "you get the best there is to eat, served in a manner that
enhances its flavor and establishes it forever in your memory."
The Elegant Art of Dining
Contents
Foreword
The Good Gray City
The Land of Bohemia
When the Gringo Came
Early Italian Impression
Birth of the French Restaurant
At the Cliff House
Some Italian Restaurants
Impress of Mexico
On the Barbary Coast
The City That Was Passes
Bohemia of the Present
As it is in Germany
In the Heart of Italy
A Breath of the Orient
Artistic Japan
Old and New Palace
At the Hotel St. Francis
Amid the Bright Lights
Around Little Italy
Where Fish Come In
Fish in Their Variety
Where Fish Abound
Some Food Variants
About Dining
Something About Cooking
Told in A Whisper
Out of Nothing
Paste Makes Waist
Tips and Tipping
The Mythical Land
A Good Bohemian Dinner
Restaurant Famous Recipes
Appendix (How to Serve Wines, Recipes)
Art of Dining Index
Mailing Lists
Forums
Webrings
Return to World Wide Cookbooks
|