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Physiology of Taste

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BUTTER SUBSTITUTES

13. In about the year 1870, through a desire to procure a cheaper
article than butter for the poorer classes of France, came the
manufacture of the first substitute for butter. Since that time the use
of butter substitutes has gradually increased, until at the present time
millions of pounds are consumed every year. A certain amount of
prejudice against their use exists, but much of this is unnecessary for
they are less likely to be contaminated with harmful bacteria than the
poorer qualities of butter. Then, too, they do not spoil so readily, and
for this reason they can be handled with greater convenience
than butter.

14. OLEOMARGARINE.--The best substitute for butter and the one most
largely used is called oleomargarine, which in the United States alone
constitutes about two and 1/2 per cent. of all the fat used as butter.
This fat is called by various other names, such as _margarine,_ and
_butterine_, but oleomargarine is the name by which the United States
authorities recognize the product. It is made by churning fats other
than butter fat with milk or cream until a butterlike consistency is
obtained. Originally, pure beef fat was employed for this purpose, and
while beef fat is used to a great extent at present, lard, cottonseed
oil, coconut oil, and peanut oil are also used. Whatever fats are
selected are churned with milk, cream, and, for the finest grades, a
considerable percentage of the very best pure butter. After they are
churned, the oleomargarine is worked, salted, and packed in the same
manner as butter.

15. The manufacture and sale of butter substitutes are controlled by
laws that, while they do not specify the kind of fat to be used, state
that all mixtures of butter with other fats must be sold as
oleomargarine. They also require that a tax of 10 cents a pound be paid
on all artificially colored oleomargarine; therefore, while coloring
matter is used in some cases, this product is usually sold without
coloring. In such an event, coloring matter is given with each pound of
oleomargarine that is sold. Before using the oleomargarine, this
coloring matter is simply worked into the fat until it is
evenly colored.

16. RENOVATED BUTTER.--Another substitute that is sometimes used to take
the place of the best grades of butter is renovated, or process,
butter. This is obtained by purifying butter that is dirty and rancid
and that contains all sorts of foreign material and then rechurning it
with fresh cream or milk. The purifying process consists in melting the
butter, removing the scum from the top, as well as the buttermilk,
brine, and foreign materials that settle, and then blowing air through
the fat to remove any odors that it might contain. Butter that is thus
purified is replaced on the market, but in some states the authorities
have seen fit to restrict its sale. While such restrictions are without
doubt justifiable, it is possible to buy butter that is more
objectionable than renovated, or process, butter, but that has no
restriction on it.

17. METHOD OF TESTING BUTTER SUBSTITUTES.--Very often oleomargarine and
process butter bear such a close resemblance to genuine butter that it
is almost impossible to detect the difference. However, there is a
simple test by which these substitutes can always be distinguished from
butter, and this should be applied whenever there is any doubt about the
matter. To make this test, place the fat in a tablespoon or a small dish
and heat it directly over the flame until it boils, stirring it
occasionally to assist in the melting. If it is oleomargarine or process
butter, it will sputter noisily and take on a curdled appearance;
whereas, if it is butter, it will melt and even boil without sputtering
although it foams to a certain extent.

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